Fusion restaurants reigned, from bison mapo tofu in Montana to jerk-roasted duck in Massachusetts
By Lee Musho Updated
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By Lee Musho Updated
Rita Ferreira, Comfort Kitchen
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Rita Ferreira, Comfort Kitchen
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Last year, nearly 54,000 restaurants opened their doors, all hoping to be recognized — whether for their creative dishes, authentic recipes, or eccentric bathrooms. And for the past 33 years, the James Beard Awards has scoured the country to find the best of the best new spots. The restaurants below have made a name for themselves this year, some creating hours-long waits and national recognition in small towns, others continuing a tradition of award-winning service. From Bozeman to Minneapolis, most are found in smaller cities, and many pair international influences with local ingredients. See the restaurants nominated for the James Beard Best New Restaurant award below.
In May of 2020, pasta lovers mourned the loss of Il Corvo, known as one of the best restaurants in Seattle —a Pioneer Square stalwart of nine years that often commanded hour-long waits. Little did they know they wouldn’t have to wait long to taste Mike Easton’s handmade pasta again.
Last year, Easton and his wife, Erin, opened their new 18-seat spot, four hours and 264 miles southeast of Seattle, in the small town of Waitsburg, Washington. The bar has a limited chalkboard menu. There are a few handmade pastas a night, like silky squares of fazzoletti with rotating seasonal sauces. One week they’re tossed in wild mushroom and parmesan cream, and another, with Dungeness crab, tomato, and saffron. Easton also offers simple, technique-driven antipasti like fresh focaccia, cured meat, and chicory salad alongside desserts like vanilla bean panna cotta topped with a grape must reduction. Well worth a road trip into the wheat fields of Walla Walla, Bar Bacetto brought back everything Seattle loved about Il Corvo —this time, in a 1,200-person town.
Just south of Austin, overlooking the Caldwell County courthouse in Lockhart, Texas’ town square, there’s a line around the block —all for Barbs-B-Q, an entirely woman-owned barbecue joint by veterans of the world-renowned Franklin Barbecue. Headed by Haley Conlin, Alexis Tovias, and Chuck Charnichart (named one of the top brisket cooks working in the world today), the spot serves up sides just as exciting as the meat, each with its own flavor-packed spin. You may have seen photos of its chartreuse “green spaghett” side on social media —their version of mac and cheese made with roasted poblanos, jalapenos, and cilantro. Instead of white bread, there’s cinnamon spelt bread, and tortillas made from masa sourced from Austin’s Nixta Taqueria. As for the barbecue itself, order the pork spare ribs with serrano syrup and lime zest, and don’t overlook the turkey made with herb butter.
Family-run Chez Noir looks at luxury in a new way. To Johnny and Monique Black, there’s nothing more luxurious than hyper-local ingredients. While, yes, there’s caviar and oysters on the menu, Chez Noir has everything you’d want in your local, California bistro: respectful nods to French classics like tartare and steak frites, but also a focus on hyper-local ingredients. Case in point: the lamb for the tartar is sourced from Dixon’s Superior Farms, and chicken for the “Albufera” from Pescadero’s Fogline Farms. If you can make it to Chez Noir during Dungeness crab season, don’t miss the Dungeness crab tortellini made with fennel soffritto, wild sorrel, and oloroso sherry.
Comfort Kitchen in Dorchester, Massachusetts, prides itself in being a Black, immigrant, and woman-owned restaurant. And the diversity of the staff’s lineage, experiences, and influences is clear in its menu, which spotlights often misrepresented stories and ingredients.
With influences reflecting the South, the Caribbean, Africa, and the Middle East, there’s no shortage of inspiration or flavor in Kwasi Kwaa and Shelley Nason’s dishes. To start, snack on some brown butter-seared okra with masala-spiced yogurt and plantain crumbs —then move to the jerk roasted duck with Haitian-style pickled vegetables, or the Yassa Chicken with cassava dumplings and caramelized onions. The beverage menu also celebrates BIPOC producers and stories —like the addition of sorel to the tropical-flavored Dream Street, as a nod to the first known African American distiller, Jackie Summers.Suppose you can’t get a reservation for dinner. In that case, you can still try some of their incredible baked goods for lunch at the cafe, like the Justice for All sandwich, a peanut butter and jelly made with housemade brioche and pear jam — or the Basque cheesecake with orange blossom caramel, also found on the evening’s dessert menu.
While Creole may be the most famous cuisine in New Orleans — a blend of African, French, and Spanish flavors —Chef Serigne Mbaye of Dakar NOLA is focusing on one African culture in particular, and its influence on Louisiana cooking: coastal Senegal.
Each course in Mbaye’s pescatarian tasting menu tells a story of the deep connection between the coastal cultures of West Africa and Louisiana. After all, many of the slaves brought to Louisiana were from West Africa. With training from iconic New Orleans restaurants like James Beard Award winnerCommander’s Palace, and a childhood in Senegal, Chef Mbaye’s dishes marry traditional Senegalese spices and techniques with local Louisiana seafood and produce. The seven-course, family-style menu features dishes like gulf shrimp in tamarind sauce and palm bread with spiced butter.
At Hayward, smack dab in the pinot-noir-soaked heart of the Willamette Valley, Chef Kari Kihara serves up what she dubs “new northwest fare:” bright punches of acid and herbs rooted by local ingredients and whole animal butchery. Thanks to its seasonality, the menu is constantly changing, but you’ll always see housemade focaccia, pickles, and a fried seafood offering. The menu is a testament to cuisines across the world, Kihara’s influences stemming everywhere from Syria to Japan.
If you’re in a trusting mood, order the “Kick Back” for the table, a chef’s choice of three savory and one sweet dish from the day’s menu. Here’s a sample of what you can look forward to: coulotte steak with pickled garlic scapes and green peppercorn, housemade sesame focaccia with koji butter, and fried sardines with sesame aioli and scallion kimchi.
Orlando is fast becoming a hot spot for destination-worthy restaurants well outside the realm of its theme parks. Take Kaya, a modern Filipino restaurant serving up local Floridian seafood. You can choose your own adventure at Kaya, whether you want a $120 tasting menu in the dining room, or to order a la carte at the laid-back Bayani Bar, where there are guest chef pop-ups on Tuesdays, karaoke on Wednesdays, and live music on Fridays.
If you’re ordering a la carte, focus on chef Lordfer Lalicon’s seafood-driven dishes, which showcase the heart of Kaya. Make sure to order the kinilaw ceviche, made with red sea bream, coconut milk, radish, and fish chips —or the chicharon and caviar: where ranch, briny caviar, and sawsawan chili vinegar are served atop savory fried chicken skin. As for mains, opt for the sugpo, Skull Island tiger prawns drenched in crab fat and chipotle, with a side of king crab garlic rice to soak up any extra sauce.
Kisser, by Leina Horii and Brian Lea, has made a home for Japanese comfort food in East Nashville. The lunch-only spot is an homage to a Japanese kissaten, or a Japanese neighborhood restaurant serving up casual, delicious dishes like katsu and udon —the kind of food owner Leina Horii grew up eating. Kisser began as a popup, and although it has a slightly larger menu now, it’s still curated and minimalist, just like its decor. To start, split a few small plates like snow crab or kabocha squash curry onigiri, as well as the beef tartare with crispy rice cakes, sesame, and chili crisp. While they’re known for their Japanese Breakfast: a $25 bento set filled with sake marinated cobia, miso soup, multiple sides, and furikake rice, don’t miss out on their handmade udon noodle bowls, like the spicy miso udon made with confit duck leg.
The famous Mexican saying, “sin maíz, no hay país,” or, “without corn, there is no country,” is a way of life at Oro by Nixta. Chef Gustavo Romero Veytia is dedicated to doing his part to save heirloom corn by “promoting corn from an overlooked side dish to star of the show, one bite at a time.” We’re not talking Midwest American corn, but heirloom Mexican varieties —thousands of years old, which come in various colors, sizes, and textures, and ones that helped to make Mexico the country it is. Nixta began as a tortilleria, where Veytia used heirloom corn to bring artisanal tortillas to Northeast Minneapolis. Now, those same tortillas are the foundation for Veytia’s masterful tacos: from carrot with a smoky, spicy Mayan pepita sauce, to Berkshire pork carnitas with avocado salsa.
There are five different versions of mole on the menu, as well as ingredients you don’t often find outside Mexico, like huitlacoche and epazote, and a flan topped with pinole,orroasted, ground corn mixed with baking spices.
Bozeman, a college town and Northern entrance to Yellowstone, isn’t often heralded as a food destination unless you’re craving a Bison burger. But last year, Shan, where the chefs are slinging up curry, noodles, and barbecue, brought a taste of Bangkok to the city. Owners Jarrett Wrisley and Candice Lin had lived in Bangkok for years, and during the pandemic, shuttered several restaurants they owned across Bangkok and Hong Kong. Shan was born as a supper club — a way for Wrisley to dip back into professional cooking —but it soon led to a permanent restaurant in the spring of 2023. Marrying their Chinese and Thai influences with local beef, lamb, and bison from nearby ranches,Wrisley and Lin fusetogether their old and new homes, much to locals’ delight. There, stick with the dishes made with meat from local ranches like the bison mapo tofu, sticky tamarind ribs, dan dan noodles made with local Meishan pork, and a slew of snacks to share, from hand-chopped beef larb and Thai beef jerky to lamb dumplings.
- Where to Eat in Chicago, From Touchdown to Takeoff
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In May of 2020, pasta lovers mourned the loss of Il Corvo, known as one of the best restaurants in Seattle —a Pioneer Square stalwart of nine years that often commanded hour-long waits. Little did they know they wouldn’t have to wait long to taste Mike Easton’s handmade pasta again.
Last year, Easton and his wife, Erin, opened their new 18-seat spot, four hours and 264 miles southeast of Seattle, in the small town of Waitsburg, Washington. The bar has a limited chalkboard menu. There are a few handmade pastas a night, like silky squares of fazzoletti with rotating seasonal sauces. One week they’re tossed in wild mushroom and parmesan cream, and another, with Dungeness crab, tomato, and saffron. Easton also offers simple, technique-driven antipasti like fresh focaccia, cured meat, and chicory salad alongside desserts like vanilla bean panna cotta topped with a grape must reduction. Well worth a road trip into the wheat fields of Walla Walla, Bar Bacetto brought back everything Seattle loved about Il Corvo —this time, in a 1,200-person town.
Just south of Austin, overlooking the Caldwell County courthouse in Lockhart, Texas’ town square, there’s a line around the block —all for Barbs-B-Q, an entirely woman-owned barbecue joint by veterans of the world-renowned Franklin Barbecue. Headed by Haley Conlin, Alexis Tovias, and Chuck Charnichart (named one of the top brisket cooks working in the world today), the spot serves up sides just as exciting as the meat, each with its own flavor-packed spin. You may have seen photos of its chartreuse “green spaghett” side on social media —their version of mac and cheese made with roasted poblanos, jalapenos, and cilantro. Instead of white bread, there’s cinnamon spelt bread, and tortillas made from masa sourced from Austin’s Nixta Taqueria. As for the barbecue itself, order the pork spare ribs with serrano syrup and lime zest, and don’t overlook the turkey made with herb butter.
Family-run Chez Noir looks at luxury in a new way. To Johnny and Monique Black, there’s nothing more luxurious than hyper-local ingredients. While, yes, there’s caviar and oysters on the menu, Chez Noir has everything you’d want in your local, California bistro: respectful nods to French classics like tartare and steak frites, but also a focus on hyper-local ingredients. Case in point: the lamb for the tartar is sourced from Dixon’s Superior Farms, and chicken for the “Albufera” from Pescadero’s Fogline Farms. If you can make it to Chez Noir during Dungeness crab season, don’t miss the Dungeness crab tortellini made with fennel soffritto, wild sorrel, and oloroso sherry.
Comfort Kitchen in Dorchester, Massachusetts, prides itself in being a Black, immigrant, and woman-owned restaurant. And the diversity of the staff’s lineage, experiences, and influences is clear in its menu, which spotlights often misrepresented stories and ingredients.
With influences reflecting the South, the Caribbean, Africa, and the Middle East, there’s no shortage of inspiration or flavor in Kwasi Kwaa and Shelley Nason’s dishes. To start, snack on some brown butter-seared okra with masala-spiced yogurt and plantain crumbs —then move to the jerk roasted duck with Haitian-style pickled vegetables, or the Yassa Chicken with cassava dumplings and caramelized onions. The beverage menu also celebrates BIPOC producers and stories —like the addition of sorel to the tropical-flavored Dream Street, as a nod to the first known African American distiller, Jackie Summers.Suppose you can’t get a reservation for dinner. In that case, you can still try some of their incredible baked goods for lunch at the cafe, like the Justice for All sandwich, a peanut butter and jelly made with housemade brioche and pear jam — or the Basque cheesecake with orange blossom caramel, also found on the evening’s dessert menu.
While Creole may be the most famous cuisine in New Orleans — a blend of African, French, and Spanish flavors —Chef Serigne Mbaye of Dakar NOLA is focusing on one African culture in particular, and its influence on Louisiana cooking: coastal Senegal.
Each course in Mbaye’s pescatarian tasting menu tells a story of the deep connection between the coastal cultures of West Africa and Louisiana. After all, many of the slaves brought to Louisiana were from West Africa. With training from iconic New Orleans restaurants like James Beard Award winnerCommander’s Palace, and a childhood in Senegal, Chef Mbaye’s dishes marry traditional Senegalese spices and techniques with local Louisiana seafood and produce. The seven-course, family-style menu features dishes like gulf shrimp in tamarind sauce and palm bread with spiced butter.
At Hayward, smack dab in the pinot-noir-soaked heart of the Willamette Valley, Chef Kari Kihara serves up what she dubs “new northwest fare:” bright punches of acid and herbs rooted by local ingredients and whole animal butchery. Thanks to its seasonality, the menu is constantly changing, but you’ll always see housemade focaccia, pickles, and a fried seafood offering. The menu is a testament to cuisines across the world, Kihara’s influences stemming everywhere from Syria to Japan.
If you’re in a trusting mood, order the “Kick Back” for the table, a chef’s choice of three savory and one sweet dish from the day’s menu. Here’s a sample of what you can look forward to: coulotte steak with pickled garlic scapes and green peppercorn, housemade sesame focaccia with koji butter, and fried sardines with sesame aioli and scallion kimchi.
Orlando is fast becoming a hot spot for destination-worthy restaurants well outside the realm of its theme parks. Take Kaya, a modern Filipino restaurant serving up local Floridian seafood. You can choose your own adventure at Kaya, whether you want a $120 tasting menu in the dining room, or to order a la carte at the laid-back Bayani Bar, where there are guest chef pop-ups on Tuesdays, karaoke on Wednesdays, and live music on Fridays.
If you’re ordering a la carte, focus on chef Lordfer Lalicon’s seafood-driven dishes, which showcase the heart of Kaya. Make sure to order the kinilaw ceviche, made with red sea bream, coconut milk, radish, and fish chips —or the chicharon and caviar: where ranch, briny caviar, and sawsawan chili vinegar are served atop savory fried chicken skin. As for mains, opt for the sugpo, Skull Island tiger prawns drenched in crab fat and chipotle, with a side of king crab garlic rice to soak up any extra sauce.
Kisser, by Leina Horii and Brian Lea, has made a home for Japanese comfort food in East Nashville. The lunch-only spot is an homage to a Japanese kissaten, or a Japanese neighborhood restaurant serving up casual, delicious dishes like katsu and udon —the kind of food owner Leina Horii grew up eating. Kisser began as a popup, and although it has a slightly larger menu now, it’s still curated and minimalist, just like its decor. To start, split a few small plates like snow crab or kabocha squash curry onigiri, as well as the beef tartare with crispy rice cakes, sesame, and chili crisp. While they’re known for their Japanese Breakfast: a $25 bento set filled with sake marinated cobia, miso soup, multiple sides, and furikake rice, don’t miss out on their handmade udon noodle bowls, like the spicy miso udon made with confit duck leg.
The famous Mexican saying, “sin maíz, no hay país,” or, “without corn, there is no country,” is a way of life at Oro by Nixta. Chef Gustavo Romero Veytia is dedicated to doing his part to save heirloom corn by “promoting corn from an overlooked side dish to star of the show, one bite at a time.” We’re not talking Midwest American corn, but heirloom Mexican varieties —thousands of years old, which come in various colors, sizes, and textures, and ones that helped to make Mexico the country it is. Nixta began as a tortilleria, where Veytia used heirloom corn to bring artisanal tortillas to Northeast Minneapolis. Now, those same tortillas are the foundation for Veytia’s masterful tacos: from carrot with a smoky, spicy Mayan pepita sauce, to Berkshire pork carnitas with avocado salsa.
There are five different versions of mole on the menu, as well as ingredients you don’t often find outside Mexico, like huitlacoche and epazote, and a flan topped with pinole,orroasted, ground corn mixed with baking spices.
Bozeman, a college town and Northern entrance to Yellowstone, isn’t often heralded as a food destination unless you’re craving a Bison burger. But last year, Shan, where the chefs are slinging up curry, noodles, and barbecue, brought a taste of Bangkok to the city. Owners Jarrett Wrisley and Candice Lin had lived in Bangkok for years, and during the pandemic, shuttered several restaurants they owned across Bangkok and Hong Kong. Shan was born as a supper club — a way for Wrisley to dip back into professional cooking —but it soon led to a permanent restaurant in the spring of 2023. Marrying their Chinese and Thai influences with local beef, lamb, and bison from nearby ranches,Wrisley and Lin fusetogether their old and new homes, much to locals’ delight. There, stick with the dishes made with meat from local ranches like the bison mapo tofu, sticky tamarind ribs, dan dan noodles made with local Meishan pork, and a slew of snacks to share, from hand-chopped beef larb and Thai beef jerky to lamb dumplings.
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